Monday, December 25, 2006

Schroeder's: Willkomen & Freuliche Weinachten!

Schroeder's Since 1893 (www.schroederssf.com). My encounter at Schroeder's commenced with a soup joke. It's Germany, 1945, people are starving. Man walks into a hofbrau and orders chicken soup. Man shouts, "waiter, waiter, there's a MOUSE in my soup!" Waiter to patron: "Shhh! Everyone will want one!" I arrived at the shank end of happy hour at this German hofbrau & sampled the spicy paprika ("secret") chicken with Eileen, a recent transplant from Manhattan. She sang with Red Skelton (as a wee tot) & later acted out his comedy sketch of the "sizzling bacon" pantomime, with flute and orchestra. Eileen is zoftig and does electronic facelifts for aging boomers -- is that a wallet lift, too? After we finished our comfort food? A rendezvous with Peter, former Adman, ex-money juggler (does he have 2 nickels to rub together?), chess player, bon vivant & raconteur who joined us at one of the large oak tables in the back. Peter & Eileen cracked jokes the whole night while I got to know the owner, Stefan Filipchik ("Cook" to his grandchildren) who bought this hofbrau in 1997. He is from the Czech Republic & loves his "live TV" daily (except Sunday) at this place which has been serving copious amounts of Bavarian food, and sizzles with the best and the brightest SF has to offer.! Stefan's talent as master of ceremonies is equalled only by his generous spirit. Start your spritz with a pitcher of Konigsberg "Mad" Ludwig beer on tap & feast on the Herman Richter murals, beer steins & rosewood bar. Swap jokes with "Heinrich", the public servant barman, who swaps bon mots with Michael Savage, shock jock, who hangs here, but not tonight: he's in rehab!
Appetizers: German potato salad , coleslaw & brown bread accompany every meal. Start with a marinated herring or the exquisite smoked salmon (lemon with garniture).(7.95) Skip the salad & go on to a choice of the varied sausage plates that grace the menu. Eileen ordered the Kase Spatzle on this rainy night, and this unfortunately was an inedible cheese concoction. ($14.95) Bypass and choose from the Fish, vegetarian, meat entrees. I ordered the Gypsy Steak, a 14" New York Strip served with boiled potatoes, red cabbage & veggies. The spicy paprika (Stefan's secret) makes this my #1 choice. (24.95).
Peter wisecracked: Recipe for gypsy chicken? he asked. "First, steal 2 chickens." An old corny joke. He then ordered the Vegetarian platter (no! you cannot screw-up veggies) & we all dug in! (12.95) Extraordinary value here -- ask for a couple of doggie bags & don't forget to order the herbs liquor from Carlsbad Hot Spring, CZ to top off a great evening or pumpkin pie w/ ice cream (7.50). Polka Dancing on Friday nights? Include me in! Does anybody remember Yogi Berra's quip: "Nobody goes to that restaurant -- it's too popular?" My advice: Go to Schroeder's & wake up your luck (it's a Persian proverb)! Guten Appetit!

Monday, December 18, 2006

ZAZIL: HAPPY ENDINGS & WELCOME, ROCIO!

Happy endings in Rocio Gomez' Coastal Mexican kitchen. Frank Sinatra to Frank, Jr.: Don't let me catch you singing like that again, without enthusiasm, you're nothing if you aren't excited by what you are doing. That was ions ago & mostly I just wanted Frank to shut up & sing! Rocio Gomez, former chef to mustachioed, macho, ex-Presidente Vicente Fox at the turn of the century, sings & the catholic fox's favorite dish? Black mole oaxaqueno! The passionate, napoleonic Rocio learned how to make a corn tortilla from her mom in San Luis Bogosi (middle of Mexico) but her regional influence is Yucatan. She is currently studying Peruvian techniques. Her kitchen is on fire with a medley of Mexican imports: jalapeno, tomatillo, chipotle, morita, fresh herbs, guava, jicama...it changes seasonally. You name it; she's got it! Organic? Yes (if local). No (if imported). As we all know, Mexico is in the Stone Age when it comes to produce! Caveat emptor!
ZAZIL (845 Market St; zazilrestaurant.com;495-6379) is open for lunch at 11:30 & serves until 11:00 F&S;closed Sundays. RESERVATIONS ARE A MUST). Why not catch a great movie at Century upstairs, where George Lucas is responsible for the superb sound system & then saunter down to Rocio's kitchen. Don't forget to start the meal with the tequila sampler (prices vary) from the great bar & catch an eyeful from the "idiot box" (my prejudice) or dissect the movie with a pal (the "sound" here is cacophonous so you may have to use sign language).
APPETIZERS: Try Rocio's favorite octopus dish: Tirapito made with octapus carpaccio, olive oil, fresh lime & chili piquin.(14) Or start with the guacamole, mixed at the table (a wildly popular favorite).
SALAD: Try the mixed greens with mango, avocado, flower petals & jicama with cilantra-basil vinaigrette.(10) Brilliant! Enjoy the nautical surroundings of authentic sea kelp & Latin music--a blissful buzz--and if you're not delirious from the tequila, so on to the platos.
MAIN COURSE: The salmon tower is a veritable Taj Mahal: a mini-mountain pan-seared salmon fillet wrapped in portobello mushroom carpaccio w/black mole & potato-white corn.(26)
This is a piquant & subtle mole in town (better than at the cousin restaurant Colibri) & the presentation is a beauty to behold but at these prices, I expect (did not get) wild salmon, not the inferior farm variety.
I tried the shrimp enchalads sauteed & wrapped in hand-made tortillas w/ green mole w/hoja santa, pumpkin seed & tomatillo: it was succulent, flavorful but not spicy enough for me. (22) Rocio, are you toning down the heat level for the gringos? Big mistake, in my opinion.
Debi, the General Manager, loves to clown around & her favorites are the grilled fish filet, pork, beef, chicken entrees -- just about everything...ask her about her ZONE diet...very friendly gal.
HAPPY ENDINGS WITH DESSERT: The highlight of my meal was the Budin de Requeson -- a "healthy" Mexican tiramisu made with requeson cheese (like cottage cheese) & a mixed berry sauce. (8) Share! Share! Share! Gracias, Rocio for a delightful evening.
SUGGESTION: Rocio, why not indicate "spicy preference" on the menu for those who don't like their Mexican bland? Just a thought! Remember the next time you stop by & have upscale, gourmet Mexican cuisine at ZAZIL, to thank the staff: we are a nation of immigrants or descendants from immigrants, are we not? We should be grateful to them/us for making our nation what it is today. Bon Appetit!

Friday, December 15, 2006

SOCIALE - DINERS HIT GENE POOL LOTTERY

Sociale: Northern Italian Eatery. A painter paints, a musician plays, a writer writes, but a movie actor waits (Mary Astor) And she might had added a cook COOKS!. In this upscale restaurant the diners look like they hit the gene pool lottery. The passions of owner David Nicol & Chef Tia are all gathered together like fingers that make a fist. Drive is considered aggression today; they know it as purpose. Benvenuti Amici (Welcome Friends) points the way to this eatery located at the end of a romantic "hideaway" cul-de-sac (3665 Sacramento St; Lunch T-Sa 11:30-2:30; Dinner M-SA 5:30-10; Closed Sunday). David serves the "ladies who lunch" organic, seasonal food from updated old Italian family recipes. Nicol believes you're nothing if not excited by what you are doing. Since its opening on September 4, 2001, he has welcomed the opportunity to explore food & wine & good conversation. Philip, retired technical writer & bon vivant), who sold his soul to the devil (did he have one to lose?), dines here frequently & steered Zontar (brain-damaged lawyer -- is that redundant?) and me into the BEST choices:
Fried Olives: Don't pass up the delectable fontina stuffed breaded olives over a bed of greens (9) or the Zucchero Salad (persimmons, Arkansas black apples, pomegranate w/ a light sherry mustard vinaigrette(9). Philip says skip the Dungeness crab (it's slid downhill).
FIRST COURSE: You can't fail with the Bolognese lasagne, layered with fresh pasta,veal & port, bechamel & pecorino-- the best in the City.(16). Under NO circumstances order the Wild Boar ravioli (my mistake): too greasy & swimming in a puddle of olive oil -- was there formerly a live wild boar in this soggy mess? No jolt to the senses -- sorry David & Tia! Try instead the pappardelle w/braised duck, porcini mushrooms & peas & you won't be sorry. It's a house favorite with the locals in the neighborhood.(18).
SECOND COURSE: Next concentrate on the generous portion of no-fail "brick" chicken served with goat cheese gratin in a pomegranate reduction: SUPERB! (19). The house specialty is Fish Stew: roasted tomato & fennel make the snapper, prawns, scallops, fingerling potatoes sing!(25) If you were to have a Last Supper, this would be it!. As an aside, try the healthy portion of broccoli di ciccio(5).
CHEESES & DOLCI: Try the Italian gorgonzola: sweet, soft & aromatic or the Boone Bouche (2 selections for 9). For sweets, you cannot fail with the devilishly delightful goat cheese cheesecake w/ lemon curd & blackberries or the chocolate truffle cake (8).
David, owner & sommelier extraordinnaire, will guide you around the large, eclectic wine & beer menu (thank you for having the non-alcoholic Claushaler & non-alcoholic wines, especially for drivers this holiday season). This place is worth a detour & share your sentiment with wisecracker Philip! Email david@caffesociale.com with questions.

Friday, December 8, 2006

SAN FRANCISCO-THE SALT HOUSE: GO FISH!

There's less & more here than meets the eye! Chef-owners Steve & Mitch Rosenthal & affable, hardworking Doug Washington are the wunderkinds of the culinary scene & have a new kid on the block. Just as three words are critical in real estate (location!location!location!), here at The Salt House: fish,fish,fish.(545 Mission between 1st & 2nd,with parking next door). I love the buzz here & bare bones minimum of frills at this upscale fish joint. The upscale bricked wall is not covered over with pseudo-art, the large mural of Don Quixote on the back wall captures the esprit de corps of the place, ditto the fantastic lighting! If you are after romantic "gemutlikeit"(coziness), 86 this place & find a more congenial place for conversation...the buzz turns conversation into a silent movie. The menu changes daily & I've been there twice. These are my recommendations:
Appetizer: crispy shrimp/spicy green beans/serrano ham/almonds (13). This is extraordinarily lightly battered w/crunchy beans & fresh harissa (a North African spice), Thai red hot chili peppers, anise & a scattering of arugula. A winner.
Entrees: Sauteed scallops w/ kohlrabi/Moroccan spices (26). My dining partner, Will, thought the texture & taste so novel you would think they're still alive. He knows "alive": He is the adopted father of 6 unruly but lovable dogs which he rescued from the holocaust of death & execution: Sam, Lucky, Kyra, Checkers, Gretchen, Girl, who are good dog angel, fighter, sweet, beautiful, gypsy & soul lover, respectively. The next time you are in Noe Valley, stop & stroke! Back to the scallops: I thought the spices did not have enough punch...too bland for my tastes.
Try the Atlantic monkfish w/sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes)/black trumpets/oxtail jus(26). Substitute arugula for the artichokes.
Desserts: all are excellent value. Share.
My only criticisms would be that the greens are too meager but it's obvious the Rosenthals & Doug are becoming the "badass" boys of the late night culinary scene (they serve until 11:00). Take in a GREAT movie at the Century (The Departed, Volver), saunter down to The Salt House & you'll have no regrets, unless you have to have a conversation about the film. Good luck, boys!

Monday, December 4, 2006

TRATTORIA CONTADINA - SECRET FOR STAYING YOUNG IS...

My secret for staying young is good Italian food, plenty of rest, and a makeup man with a spray gun. (Bob Hope).I'm no culinary Nostradamus & it doesn't take a visionary to figure out that TRATORRIA CONTADINA needs a another chef--yeah, for a hope-filled second restaurant. Since opening almost 20 years ago this gem in North Beach, "little Abruzzi", has been a hit with locals & lucky tourists who are in on the secret. The artist in the kitchen, Jean-Pablo, is NOT psychorigid, humorless. His single redeeming vice is to share a bad joke, this time about an Jewish-Japanese restaurant...

What's its name? I asked. So-sumi! Drum roll please!

Frugal shoppers in Chinatown or gezillionnaires in the new Westfield Mall, lost in a holiday daze can easily walk here. Or hop the cable car/MUNI 30,45 toward Fisherman's Wharf (1800 Mason;(415)982-5728) Reservations are a must. Mon-Friday 5:30-9-00;SA-SU until 10pm. During the holidays, you can listen to 3 wise black men channeling the Dixie Hummingbirds version of "You can call on Jesus" at the Caffe Roma (I called & asked HIM to save from the maddening crowds, no answer) , stop by Tosca & crack a few jokes with the politicos, or hang at the Washington Square Bar & Grill where you can run into Tom Brokaw,ay & sip a dirty vodka martini!

Contadina's motto: LEAVE YOUR PROBLEMS AT THE DOOR: MANGIA & BUON APPETITO! This is a small, upstairs-downstairs & upstairs is suitable for everyone offended by the decibel levels in restaurants now. Milo will bring you a bottle of chianti classico Castella de Gabbiano (39) which does well with my favorite appetizer: Carpaccio de manza (filet mignon, arugula, parmesan, olive oil, capers) or for heartier appetites, try the flat iron steak entree which a couple of guys from Montana swear is scrumptious. Bathed in a balsamic vinegar reduction, red onions & caper sauce, it's served with garlic spinach & luscious creamy polenta. Big enough for sharing!

The chef must have stolen his mother's homemade fish stew recipe (made seasonally) & steamed in a basil & oregano sauce(22). My dining partner had the chicken marsala w/pan-roasted chicken breasts (hormone free) with a delightful swiss chard & delicately roasted potatoes.

Desserts are the Italian classics & a real bargain (6): tiramisu, spumoni & gelato (try the hazelnut). Good for sharing!

If you decide to saunter down to Columbus, don't forget Verdi & Elvis play non-stop at Cafe Puccini where you get the hipster who's just finished his/her first novel & is enjoying the latte (2.50), fresh fruit torta(4) & gay banter. W.C. Fields said California is the only state in the union where you can fall asleep under a rose bush in full bloom & freeze to death. In North Beach, you'll be greeted with warm smiles by Jean-Pablo & his hardworking staff. Grazie & Buon Notte!

TRATTORIA CONTADINA - SECRET FOR STAYING YOUNG IS...

My secret for staying young is good Italian food, plenty of rest, and a makeup man with a spray gun. (Bob Hope).I'm no culinary Nostradamus & it doesn't take a visionary to figure out that TRATORRIA CONTADINA needs a another chef--yeah, for a hope-filled second restaurant. Since opening almost 20 years ago this gem in North Beach, "little Abruzzi", has been a hit with locals & lucky tourists who are in on the secret. The artist in the kitchen, Jean-Pablo, is NOT psychorigid, humorless. His single redeeming vice is to share a bad joke, this time about an Jewish-Japanese restaurant...

What's its name? I asked. So-sumi! Drum roll please!

Frugal shoppers in Chinatown or gezillionnaires in the new Westfield Mall, lost in a holiday daze can easily walk here. Or hop the cable car/MUNI 30,45 toward Fisherman's Wharf (1800 Mason;(415)982-5728) Reservations are a must. Mon-Friday 5:30-9-00;SA-SU until 10pm. During the holidays, you can listen to 3 wise black men channeling the Dixie Hummingbirds version of "You can call on Jesus" at the Caffe Roma (I called & asked HIM to save from the maddening crowds, no answer) , stop by Tosca & crack a few jokes with the politicos, or hang at the Washington Square Bar & Grill where you can run into Tom Brokaw,ay & sip a dirty vodka martini!

Contadina's motto: LEAVE YOUR PROBLEMS AT THE DOOR: MANGIA & BUON APPETITO! This is a small, upstairs-downstairs & upstairs is suitable for everyone offended by the decibel levels in restaurants now. Milo will bring you a bottle of chianti classico Castella de Gabbiano (39) which does well with my favorite appetizer: Carpaccio de manza (filet mignon, arugula, parmesan, olive oil, capers) or for heartier appetites, try the flat iron steak entree which a couple of guys from Montana swear is scrumptious. Bathed in a balsamic vinegar reduction, red onions & caper sauce, it's served with garlic spinach & luscious creamy polenta. Big enough for sharing!

The chef must have stolen his mother's homemade fish stew recipe (made seasonally) & steamed in a basil & oregano sauce(22). My dining partner had the chicken marsala w/pan-roasted chicken breasts (hormone free) with a delightful swiss chard & delicately roasted potatoes.

Desserts are the Italian classics & a real bargain (6): tiramisu, spumoni & gelato (try the hazelnut). Good for sharing!

If you decide to saunter down to Columbus, don't forget Verdi & Elvis play non-stop at Cafe Puccini where you get the hipster who's just finished his/her first novel & is enjoying the latte (2.50), fresh fruit torta(4) & gay banter. W.C. Fields said California is the only state in the union where you can fall asleep under a rose bush in full bloom & freeze to death. In North Beach, you'll be greeted with warm smiles by Jean-Pablo & his hardworking staff. Grazie & Buon Notte!

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

EL CASTILLITO - YOU NEED A BIG FAT MEXICAN SENOR/SENORA...

SAL says:

1. You ain't nothin' if you ain't honest!
2. Speak the truth & shame the devil!
3. When you're dying of thirst, you'll drink from a mudhole!

You need a big fat Mexican senor/senora cooking the food for it to be authentic, or at least remind you of mom or "fire up the barbecue" dad in the kitchen. The search for the perfect Zapata Burrito(6.89) ends at this popular,no-frills hole-in-the-wall: does SIZE, quality, price matter? Can you say gracias,gracias,gracias!!! Whether you are pro or anti- immigrant, you'll wind up thinking with your stomach at Jose's "little castle." (136 Church nr. Duboce;hours 10:45-11 daily).

If you prefer grilled tortillos to steamed (I do), share the melted cheese: the heat is off the richter scale. Partial to refried beans? NO MSG, sublime adhesion! I like the black beans & the side bar of marinated carrots & hot green peppers & radishes, beets, celery.

Forget the tofu & go for the chicken taco with cilantro, holy guacamole, onions, black beans, a heap of cilantro & hot salsa, this baby sings! (2.29).

Jose cooks several seafood specials but my fave: prawns, onions, beans, tomato, avocado, fiery sauce(9). Try this for breakfast & you won't need to eat for the rest of the day!

This delightful joint can seat families who want to get in & out -- everyone has a great time here! This is my idea of great "fast food"!

Pick up a tape at the local Blockbusters, a book at Aardvaark (a block away) or stroll down a few blocks to the Castro Peets or Starbucks & take in a great movie.

Or just swing down the sidewalks of San Francisco. Can you say fun,frivolous,"F"word, la familia, friend, faithful, food, flip, flatulence. (Thank you, Sal).

Gracias!